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From-Geisha-to-Diva 33

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Tiffany Chan
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2020-12-03
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passed on September 03, 2024 at 11:54
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  • paste-resist dyeing; silk crepe This tomcsodc also has decoration on its shoulders and sleeves. An inside lining in a red and white geometric design based on a flax leaf pattern simulates an inner kimono. There is an additional royal blue edging showing between the pattered lining and the outer cream and blue kimono. The bold colour contrasts are very �geisha� - they would not have been worn by the typical Japanese woman. The heavy hem padding indicates that this kimono was meant to be worn trailing on the floor behind its wearer. 45. homongi with fans paste-resist dyeing; gold leaf stencilling; small touches of gold embroidery; silk crepe This is also a fully lined kimono. The decoration is basic yuzen dyeing with a few accents of gold stencilling and gold thread couched with red. The flower motifs on the fans - plum, peony, chrysanthemum and maple - are auspicious themes associated with the seasons. 46. tomcsode with camellias and 3 tachibana crests paste-resist dyeing; silk crepe This is a very elegant kimono with the decoration done entirely in yuzen dyeing. The camellias are shown on the inside at the centre opening, as well as on the outside, so that they would be seen as the kimono was held slightly open during a performance. The hem is padded, indicating the kimono was worn with a trailing hem. The camellias are also a New Year�s flower. 47. homongi with kimonos hanging on ropes for spring airing paste-resist dyeing; gold and silver stencilling; gold, silver and rainbow thread embroidery; silk crepe The decoration on this homongi is very bold and dramatic. Kimonos swirl in the wind on the lower part of the robe and cherry blossom petals in rainbow thread embroidery and stencilled gold and silver are scattered on the shoulders. The kimono shown on the inside left of the front opening carries across to the front right side. The motifs on the kimonos include iris with the characters �spring wind,� water flowers and a stylized water swirl, wisteria, swallows, mallets, grasses, and the characters �1000 birds� and �flower wave� on a silver basket weave pattern. 48. furisodc with peonies, phoenix birds, paulonia and cheriy blossoms paste-resist dyeing; gold and silk thread embroidery; silver leaf stencilling; damask-like figured silk satin; gold leaf stencilling on partial lining of damask-like figured silk satin The storage folder noted that this kimono was to be worn with a red background bird design obi. Only something as bold as that sounds could have held its own with this furisodc. The decoration is large in scale, vivid in colour, and very dramatic. These qualities, and the long-sleeved furisodc style, are appropriate to an unmarried girl for normal wear, but geisha and entertainers like Ichimaru disregarded these rules and wore whatever was suited to their performance. The motifs on the furisodc are all veiy auspicious themes. The partial lining in pink rinzu with an overall geometric fence (higaki) latticework damask design is further decorated with squares of gold leaf. The heavy padding of the hem indicates that this kimono was worn trailing. 30
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