| Transcript |
- Ladies� Fashions in Ancient China
Fashion in early China is illustrated in ancient tombs not only by the actual garments, which have surprisingly survived the unfavourable conditions of long interment, but also by a variety of pictorial representations carved in stone, moulded in clay and painted on silk scrolls and wall murals. In addition, small-scaletextile garments have been found on tomb figurines from Chinese Turkestan. All these specimens have helped to give a better insight into the types of garments and fabrics popular in ancient China. Nevertheless, the picture is still far from complete.
Generally speaking, it seems that the outer garments of the Han period, at least in style, could be worn by either sex. They basically can be divided into two types: formal wear for the aristocracy (figs, i, B) and daily wear for the lower-class servants and farmers (fig. ii). The garments of the aristocracy worn at court and formal affairs, consisted of a long robe, reaching to the floor with full sleeves long enough to cover the hands when folded respectfully. It was closed to one side and held in place by a belt or sash and had border rims at the sleeves, the collar and the lower hem. Layers of undergarments seem to have been worn beneath this long, flowing robe which concealed the body. This style shows little change for several centuries. Choice of pattern and colour of fabric depended on the occasion and the social status of the wearer. Officials and people of importance usually were dressed in voluminous garments.
The other type was worn by the lower classes for daily use. It consisted of a knee- length or slightly longer coat which closes to the right, has medium-width sleeves and is worn over trousers. Not only did the length of the garments differentiate the classes, but also the type of material used for its manufacture, which was either silk, gauze, cotton or hemp. The first two types of material were reserved for the upper classes.
Another type of costume that Han ladies wore for daily use was a long-sleeved blouse which closed to the right, together with a long skirt reaching to the ground. Examples of these garments have been excavated from Han tombs in Gansu and Hunan. This style of costume continued to be popular with only minor variations for the next few centuries. Border rims of contrasting fabric could be added and the shape of the sleeves varied. For example, court ladies of the Northern Wei dynasties preferred narrow upper sleeves combined with a wide lower sleeve from the elbow down. The hems of the skirts and the sleeve cuffs were sometimes trimmed with pleated rims of fabric. Instead of closing to the right side, the two front sections of the Northern Wei blouse met at the front centre, creating a V-neckline. The skirts were tied with a sash at the front, with the two long ends hanging down.
By the Sui dynasty, the waistline of the dress became quite high. The figurine sets of lovely musicians and dancers of this period display the high-waisted skirt worn over a blouse with long, narrow sleeves (fig. 35).
The basic outfit for the Tang dynasty ladies consisted of a narrow-sleeved blouse, a long scarf, and a long, flaring skirt. The long scarf or shawl came into use during the period of the Northern and Southern dynasties, and became extremely popular during the Tang dynasty. The shawl was originally not Chinese and most likely was introduced from Persia by way of Central Asia. The scarf, which was of thin, translucent silk fabric, was worn to complement their dress. The majority of the female tomb figurines and the ladies painted on the walls of the tomb chambers are dressed in this fashion. With this basic outfit, various types of jackets could be worn: sleeveless, tight-fitting jackets which were moulded to the bust with a low-cut neck�71
|
|---|
